• Find the alarm with the rapidly flashing red light on the front cover
• Press the 'Hush' button on the alarm to silence. If it doesn't silence it, clean the alarm
• Clean the alarm using a vacuum (see 'How do I maintain alarms?' section). Wait 10 minutes, if the alarm sounds again replace it
• If there are cooking fumes or steam around, it may be that the wrong sensor type is fitted. Change the alarm type – see the 'What Works Where?' section

• If the green light on the alarm cover is off, check fuses/wiring
• If the alarm is a 140 Series alarm, slide it off its base and change the battery (Alkaline 9V PP3 – Duracell MN1604 or Eveready 522)
• If you have other alarms installed, swap with another alarm – does the beep follow it?

- NO - Check the wiring. Check if there is anything else beeping (e.g. an old battery alarm)

• Check wiring and connections
• Fill any gaps were cables enter the base so cold air doesn't enter
• Is there anything electrically noisy on the same circuit?
• Clean the alarm using a vacuum (see 'How do I maintain alarms?' section). Wait 10 minutes, if the alarm sounds again replace it

• Press and hold the Test button on one of the alarms for 10 seconds
• Check interconnecting cables are wired correctly
• Check there are no shorts or loose connections on the wiring
• If Live and Neutral has been mixed between alarms, this will have damaged the alarms. Fix the wiring and replace all alarms
• If a High Voltage insulation test has been carried out with the alarms in place, it will have damaged the alarms. Replace all alarms

• Press and hold the test button for 10 seconds
• Make sure the alarm is correctly connected to the base
• If it still doesn't work, replace the alarm

• Check the alarms are compatible
• Check the connections/wiring between the switches/call point and alarms. Should be 3-core and earth (Live, Interconnect, Neutral and Earth)
• Check all units are receiving mains power. If not, check the fuses/wiring
• Check the alarms that aren't working aren't faulty (see 'How do I test/commission?' section)
• Replace the switch/call point

• Check the switch and all alarms are receiving mains power. If not, check the fuses/wiring
• Check the alarms are compatible
• Replace the switch

• Check all units are receiving mains power. If not, check the fuses/wiring
• Check connections/wiring on all units
• If switching a mains device, check a Live link wire has been connected to the common on the relay (the contacts are Volt-free)

• Check connections/wiring to the device being switched isn't reversed

• Check connections/wiring on all alarms and the interface base
• Check all units are receiving mains power. If not, check the fuses/wiring

• Check connections/wiring from the strobe to the interface base
• Check the vibrating pad is plugged in correctly

• There may be CO present. Turn off the fuel burning appliance, open windows/doors and leave the property.
• Ring the emergency number of the gas/fuel supplier
• Don't enter the property until the alarm has stopped
• Don't use any appliances until a qualified person has checked them

• If the green light on the alarm is off, check the fuses/wiring
• If the amber light on the alarm is flashing, change the sensor module (260 Series only). If the beeping continues, replace the alarm

• Check the wiring and connections to the alarm
• If green light on the alarm is off, check the fuses/wiring
• Is there anything electrically noisy on the same circuit?

• Press and hold the test button for 10 seconds
• Make sure the alarm is connected correctly to the base
• If it still doesn't work, replace the alarm

• Find the alarm with the rapidly flashing red light on the front cover
• If there are cooking fumes or steam around, it may be that the wrong sensor type is fitted. Change the alarm type – see 'What works where?' section
• Make sure all the alarms/bases have been House Coded together
• They may be House Coded with alarms next door– reset all units back to factory code and re-House-Code
• Clean the alarm using a vacuum (see 'How do I maintain alarms?' section). Wait 10 minutes, if the alarm sounds again replace it
• Check that the alarms haven't also been hard-wire interconnected. If so, disconnect and isolate the interconnect wire

• If the green light on the alarm cover is off, check fuses/wiring
• If the alarm is a 140 Series alarm, slide it off its base and change the battery (Alkaline 9V PP3 – Duracell MN1604 or Eveready 522)
• If you have other alarms installed, swap with another alarm – does the beep follow it?

• - YES - Remove the alarm and replace it
• - NO - Check the wiring. Check if there is anything else beeping, e.g. an old battery alarm

• Check wiring and connections
• Fill any gaps were cables enter the base so cold air doesn't enter
• Is there anything electrically noisy on the same circuit?
• Clean the alarm using a vacuum (see 'How do I maintain alarms?' section). Wait 10 minutes, if the alarm sounds again replace it

• Press and hold the Test button on one of the alarms for 20 seconds
• Make sure the alarms have been House Coded together correctly
• Make sure the earth cable hasn't accidentally been wired to the Interconnect (IC) terminal. If it has, remove it and isolate in the dedicated earth terminal in the RadioLINK base
• If a High Voltage insulation test has been carried out with the alarms/bases in place, it will have damaged the alarms and bases. Replace all units

• Press and hold the Test button on one of the alarms for 10 seconds
• Make sure the alarm is correctly connected to the base
• If it still doesn't work, replace the alarm and base

• Check all units are receiving mains power. If not, check the fuses/wiring
• Slide the alarm off and press the battery switch on the front of the RadioLINK base 'ON'
  

• Check the alarms/bases are compatible
• Make sure the switch/call point has been House Coded with all the alarms/bases
• Check the alarms/bases that aren't working aren't faulty (see 'How Do I Test & Commission?' Section)
• Replace the switch/call point

• Make sure the switch/call point has been House Coded with all the alarms/bases
• Check the yellow battery switch on the back of the unit is switched to 'ON'
• Check the alarms/bases that aren't working aren't faulty (see 'How Do I Test & Commission?' Section)
• Replace the switch/call point

• Make sure it has been House-Coded with all the alarms/bases
• Check all units are receiving mains power. If not, check the fuses/wiring
• Check connections/wiring to all units
• If switching a mains device, check a Live link wire has been connected to the common on the relay (the contacts are Volt-free)

• Check connections/wiring to the device being switched isn't reversed

• Make sure it has been House-Coded with all the alarms/bases
• Check all units are receiving mains power. If not, check the fuses/wiring

• Check the vibrating pad is plugged in correctly

• There may be CO present. Turn off the fuel burning appliance, open windows/doors and leave the property
• Ring the emergency number of the gas/fuel supplier
• Don't enter the property until the alarm has stopped
• Don't use any appliances until a qualified person has checked them

• If the green light on the alarm is off, check the fuses/wiring
• If the amber light on the alarm is flashing, change the sensor module. If the beeping continues, replace the alarm

• Check the wiring and connections to the alarm
• If green light on the alarm is off, check the fuses/wiring
• Is there anything electrically noisy on the same circuit?

• Press and hold the test button for 10 seconds
• Make sure the alarm is connected correctly to the base
• If it still doesn't work, replace the alarm

• Press and hold the test button for 20 seconds
• Make sure the alarm has been House-Coded with all the alarms/bases
• If a High Voltage insulation test has been carried out with the alarm in place, it will have damaged the alarm. Replace the alarm